Stainless steel chronograph that can break millions of dollars. Royal Oak Offshore and submarine explorers have their own skills.
The chronograph has always been a complex function that is
somewhat underestimated by the market. Its movement complexity may actually be
better than the tourbillon, but because of the high popularity of the
chronograph, the brand will develop this regardless of entry, medium price or
high price. Class watches (some use universal movements, some use homemade movements),
so we are preconceived to think that the chronograph is more general. However,
in addition to accurate timing and excellent handling, the real high-end
chronographs have nothing to say about their design and texture. This is why
mechanical chronographs range from 10,000 blocks to millions of pieces. Watches
of the same type, but if you look closely at the details, you can understand
that sometimes a penny is really worth it. Generally speaking, we think that
the stainless steel chronograph is biased towards the entry style, and the
budget can be started within tens of thousands of blocks. However, the high-end
brands also have stainless steel chronograph works, and the price often exceeds
our knowledge. What will they have? What is a high value? This time, I will
take a look at the two popular high-end sports watch series, Audemars Piguet
Royal Oak Offshore and Patek Philippe Underwater Explorer, to see what they are
doing in the details.
AUDEMARS PIGUET Royal Oak Offshore Self-winding Chronograph
AUDEMARS PIGUET launched several ROO automatic
chronographs in 2018, which are mainly 42mm models, except for a 44mm version.
Compared to the 42mm models, there are precious metal and stainless steel
versions, and there are many colors to choose from. The 44mm is a stainless
steel case with a signature stainless steel case, but it is especially replaced
with a green ceramic bezel, even the rubber strap is opened. The brand
precedent was replaced with a camouflage design, and many people’s eyes were
bright after the launch of the tide. In 2019, the brand continued its momentum
last year and released a ROO chronograph with three camouflage straps. This
time, in addition to the green camouflage, there are more blue camouflage and chocolate
camouflage. It’s awkward.
▲ Audemars Piguet is one of the pioneers in the development of ceramic
materials at the altar. Although in recent years, there is less ink in ceramic
materials, since the green ceramics in 2018, there are new colors such
as blue ceramics in 2019, which makes people feel refreshed.
The Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph used to be 42mm or 44mm.
The overall color scheme is still conservative. At most, it is a different
material case with a two-color faceplate. However, in recent years, Audemars
Piguet has been slow on the diving watch series. Slow start to pay attention to
more bold color matching is refreshing, 2019 new 44mm ROO chronograph seems to
inadvertently also infected this young free atmosphere, first of all, it is the
series of only the debut of the blue ceramic bezel ( Including the button and
the crown is also blue ceramics, with a blue faceplate, the whole ocean is
full of vitality, just these details have made this look different.
▲ If you are a little discouraged with the blue camouflage strap, the
the brand also has a plain blue strap that can be replaced, so that the wearer can
wear a different style
Currently, the 44mm ROO chronograph on the line is mainly equipped
with a rubber strap (a few models are crocodile straps), but the color of the
rubber belt is probably the unbeaten option of black and white, but this 44mm
ROO timing The code table is different. After 2018, Audemars Piguet renewed the
topic of camouflage straps. The combination of blue camouflage and the blue ceramic
ring has an anti-green tone jungle camouflage personality, showing a different
masculine taste, combined with Offshore type is originally a style that
emphasizes boldness and boldness. With the case of such a camouflage rubber
belt, Audemars Piguet's watches can be more popular among young people.
▲ 3126/3840 chronograph movement, 100 meters waterproof specifications,
these are common specifications of the ROO chronograph, but from the design
of the automatic disc can be seen that it is different from the 42mm style.
The 3126/3840 caliber is built after Audemars Piguet's 3120
caliber and timing module. Its small three-eye dial style is not a novel
design, but one thing is special. The small seconds are located at 12 o'clock,
which is different from the small seconds fixed position we usually see in the
left three-eye design. The 44mm version of the automatic movement of the
movement has hollowed out on both sides. The middle part is simply engraved
with the word "AP". The surface of the automatic disc is also
blackened. In contrast, the 42mm automatic disc is solid and reveals the K gold
primary color. Inscribed with a decorative totem such as the Audemars Piguet
emblem, in terms of visual experience, the 44mm has a sporting watch fu.
PATEK PHILIPPE Aquanaut 5968A
PATEK PHILIPPE's Aquanaut series has been available for more
than 20 years, but the pace of PP's development of new features is still
conservative. Previously, it was only roughly divided into three-needle and
two-time styles, but considering it as an introduction. The potential worth
developing, so in 2018, the brand launched a new 5968A with a timing function. On
the one hand, the sports watch combined with the timing function is a natural
thing, and at the same time, this series finally has more choices than the
above two functions, and from the watch From the overall design point of view,
it is clear that Patek Philippe hopes to cut into the market of young people
and show more vigor and vitality.
▲The face panel uses a black gradient design and the orange-colored
elements combined with the timing function are younger and more energetic. The
six-point direction is the scoreboard rather than the usual small seconds.
Photo: deployant.com
Different from the 2017 commemorative model, the precious
metal case is used indiscriminately. This time, the 5968A returns to the
stainless steel material that echoes the positioning of the series. The
appearance of the watch is increased by the timing start and the zero return
button, making the crown shoulder look visually. A little down (actually just
an illusion), according to the design of the large rectangular shape, it is
more convenient to operate. Aquanaut is more delicate than the general sports
watch, for example, the surface of the case is alternately polished and satin
polished. The multi-section cuts through the rich three-dimensional sense,
which is the height that ordinary sports watches can hardly reach.
▲Like the Nautilus 5740, the 5968A also uses Patek Philippe's
newly developed folding buckle system in 2018, which incorporates the Keller
Zhuohua Cross into the design to highlight the brand's genes.
The dial of the watch is indispensable for the radial
embossing of the series of signs, but the black side of the 5968A has a little
gradual effect, giving the watch more pleasing modernity. In response to the
new timing function of the watch, the new changes in the faceplate include the
The 60-point scoreboard in the six-point direction and the mid-axis chronograph
second hand. At the same time, the timing scale is added to the scale ring on
the periphery of the dial. Interestingly, these new details are inconsistent
with the use of orange, which stands out against the backdrop of a black
gradient background. This is a little different from most chronographs in that
it directly discards the hour counter and the small second's disc. Although the
similar binocular or tri-eye design is still a common configuration of the
chronograph at this stage, it is considered The practicality is not so
absolute, so Patek Philippe boldly got rid of these burdens and quickly
established the chronograph of Aquanaut's first chronograph with its clearest
gesture.
▲CH 28-520 C movement adopts the combination of the column wheel and
vertical clutch. The advantage is to improve the timing accuracy and reduce the
wear rate of parts. The chronograph second hand can even be used as a large second
hand.
The 5968A is equipped with the CH 28-520 C automatic
movement, which has been previously used in works such as the Nautilus series,
so it is no stranger to those who like Patek Philippe, which has both the
traditional column wheel device and the Also combined with the relatively late
the vertical clutch mechanism, it is theoretically possible to avoid the phenomenon
of pointer fluttering when the timing function is activated, and because of the
the vertical clutch can minimize the friction between the parts, so even if the
middle axle chronograph second hand is used as the large second hand The use
will not accelerate the wear and tear of the movement parts, you can use it
with peace of mind (this is why the watch does not set a small second as the
general chronograph). Also, the timing of the CH 28-520 C has a flyback
function. In the face of continuous timing, its practicality is relatively
high. As a whole, the initial experience of the Aquanaut timing function is in
place, so that the PP sports watch is preferred. The person has the reason to
shoot again.
AUDEMARS PIGUET Royal Oak Offshore Self-winding Chronograph
Stainless steel / 3126/3840 automatic movement / hour,
minute, small seconds, date display / chronograph function / sapphire crystal
mirror, transparent bottom cover / waterproof 100 meters / diameter 44mm /
reference price: NT$ 1,029,000
PATEK PHILIPPE Aquanaut 5968A
Stainless steel material / CH 28-520 C automatic winding
movement / hour, minute, small seconds, date display / flyback chronograph
function / sapphire crystal mirror, transparent bottom cover / waterproof 120
meters / diameter 42.2mm / reference price :NT$ 1,380,000
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